Wednesday, December 13

Guess where I'm eating this weekend...

The culinary mecca of San Sebastian, Spain, famed for having more Michelin stars per capita than any place on earth...if you care about that sort of thing. I just want to eat my fill at places like Arzak -- described below by the recently departed NY Times food critic and bon vivant R.W. "Johnny" Apple in his final column:
One fine Easter day, my wife, Betsey, and I ate our Paschal lamb -- a custom throughout Christendom, and especially among the sheep-herding Basques at the Arzaks' 110-year-old roadside tavern, rated three stars in the Michelin guide.

A faintly gamy deboned chop came to the table wearing a tissuelike coffee-flavored "veil" a taste-enhancing shroud made by baking a layer of cafe con leche between sheets of Silpat pan liner. With the pan juices poured over the meat, partly melting the "veil," you get a sauce remarkably reminiscent of American red-eye gravy. Arzak's food is modern and entertaining like that, often witty, never overwrought, limited largely to local ingredients white tuna, fresh figs, fino sherry.


Update: Killer website on S. Sebastian pintxos, the Northern Spanish version of tapas, can be found here

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