One fine Easter day, my wife, Betsey, and I ate our Paschal lamb -- a custom throughout Christendom, and especially among the sheep-herding Basques at the Arzaks' 110-year-old roadside tavern, rated three stars in the Michelin guide.
A faintly gamy deboned chop came to the table wearing a tissuelike coffee-flavored "veil" a taste-enhancing shroud made by baking a layer of cafe con leche between sheets of Silpat pan liner. With the pan juices poured over the meat, partly melting the "veil," you get a sauce remarkably reminiscent of American red-eye gravy. Arzak's food is modern and entertaining like that, often witty, never overwrought, limited largely to local ingredients white tuna, fresh figs, fino sherry.
Update: Killer website on S. Sebastian pintxos, the Northern Spanish version of tapas, can be found here